November 9-10, 2002
The engine was now ready to go back in the pickup.  We could have simply attached the chains of the engine hoist to the lifting brackets on the engine but we really didn't want to scratch up the newly painted brackets.  Also, the brackets are very close to the valve covers and we were afraid we might damage them.   I mentioned to Dave that I had seen a picture of a plate that attached to the carburetor bolt holes in the intake manifold and was then used to hoist the engine.  Dave is always up for a challenge, so he said he thought he could make one.  

To make the lifting plate we first located the holes that would attach the 1/4" thick steel plate to the intake manifold, using the carburetor gasket for a template.  We then drilled the holes using Dave's drill press.  Next, we drilled holes in a second piece of 1/4" thick steel plate.  These holes would be used to attach two short sections of chains.  Dave then welded this second steel plate vertically in the center of the base plate.   After everything cooled off, we attached the plate to the intake manifold with four grade 8 bolts.  We were now ready to attached the engine hoist and begin installing the engine.

 Overall, the lifting plate worked great.  Because the plate is attached at only one point on the engine, it is easy to tilt the engine when lowering it into the engine bay.  It did tend to swing around a little, so you have to be sure to always have a hand on the engine during the installation.  I don't know if this system would work as well if you were installing the transmission and engine as one unit, but with just the engine it worked great and we didn't scuff up or damage any of the paint or engine parts. 

Don't get the impression that everything was a piece of cake.  It took a lot of grunting, cursing, and head scratching for Dave and I to get the engine back in a bolted up.  The first problem we encountered was getting the bolts installed in the engine mounts.  I had bought new engine mounts because the old ones literally fell apart when we took them off.  The new mounts didn't come with new bolts, but the old bolts were in good shape, so we figured we would just re-use them.   

Installing the engine mount bolts is done mostly by feel, because you can't really see what you're doing.  After about 30 minutes of grunting and cursing, we concluded that our "feel" wasn't up to the task.  No matter what we tried, we couldn't get the bolts started.   After a little head-scratching I asked Dave if he thought maybe the new engine mounts used different sized bolts than the old mounts.  He said he didn't think so, but anything was worth a shot at this point.  So, we lifted the engine enough to see the holes in the engine mounts.  Now that we could see the holes, it was clear that the old bolts were to large for the new mounts.  Luckily, Dave had some spare grade 8 bolts of the correct size.  Within about ten minutes, we had the engine in a bolted down.

With the engine bolted in place, we could now re-attach the transmission to the engine.  I thought this would be a big job, but everything went smooth and we had the transmission re-attached in just a few minutes.  Re-installing all of the other parts to the engine didn't go quite as fast or smooth, but in a few hours we had everything installed.  The hardest part was figuring out which bolts went to what.  I knew I would regret not bagging and tagging the bolts that went to all the engine parts (air conditioning compressor, alternator, power steering pump, etc.).  But Dave said, "Oh, it'll be obvious when we go to put them back on".   Not!!  After a little trial and error, we soon had everything back on but it would have saved a lot of time if we had labeled all the bolts as we removed them.  I also replaced all of the rubber hoses, clamps, grommets, etc.  It was a good thing I took pictures of the engine before we removed all of the hoses because this engine has vacuum hose out the wazoo and figuring out how they all went would have been a real nightmare.  The last thing we installed was the carburetor and the fuel line.  We were now ready to crank her up and see what happened.

The last thing we needed to do before cranking the engine was prime the carburetor.  You might be tempted to just pour gasoline in the throat of the carburetor.  But that tends to just flood the intake and pistons with fuel.   What's needed is to fill the gas bowl and then let the fuel pump and carburetor handle the job of getting gas to the spark plugs.  To prime the carburetor we poured about 1/4 cup of gas down the vent tube, using a small funnel. 

Before cranking,  I installed the air cleaner.  The last thing I needed was a backfire setting the engine ablaze.  I pumped the accelerator 3 times and waited about 10 seconds for the fuel to distribute.  Then I turned the key and voila -- NOTHING!!  I don't mean it didn't crank.  I mean it didn't do anything -- no click, no grind, no nothing.  My first thought was that we had forgotten to connect the battery.  But the battery was connected and we had lights, horn, and gauges.  We just didn't have any juice going to the starter.  

Time for a little detective work.  Maybe we didn't hooked up the wires to the coil and starter correctly.  We had hooked them up from memory, so that was a good place to start.  We thought about using Dave's 68 pickup as a guide, but he had installed an HEI distributor and that hooked up differently than my points distributer.  Then Dave thought of his old tractor.  It was basically the same hookup.  Sure enough, the wires on the tractor were hooked up just the opposite from the way we had them on Maych.  We were just about to switch them around and then Dave remembered that the tractor used a positive ground system, rather than the negative ground system that Maych used.  Whew!  Good thing we caught that little mistake in time.  

Okay, it was now time to hit the books.  We dragged out the Shop Manual and went over the wiring diagrams.  From what we could tell it appeared we had everything hooked up just like it showed.  So, what's the problem.  Grasping for straws, I decided to look under the dash to see if by chance we could have pulled out a  wire from the ignition switch we we were putting in the carpet.  Nope, everything seemed to be all right.  Just as I was about to climb out of the cab I discovered the problem.  I called to Dave, who was still looking under the hood for the problem.  I said, "Dave I found the problem, but I'm kind of ashamed to admit it".  He gave me a look and then he saw the smile on my face and he also knew what the problem was.  We didn't have the freaking thing in Park!!

I shifted into park, turned the key and this time the engine roared to life!  I stayed in the cab to keep the engine speed up around 1,500 rpms.  We had attached a tachometer and placed it near the windshield so I could keep and eye on the rpms.  Because the camshaft and lifters are primarily oiled by splash form the crankshaft, any rpm below 1,500 could result in insufficient oiling.  Also, at low rpms the engine will not rotate fast enough to force the lifters to rotate on the camshaft and properly seat.  Once the engine got to about normal operating temperature Dave set the idle to maintain 1,500 rpms and we  we ran the engine at that speed for about 20 minutes.  I kept a close eye on the oil pressure during this time.

After this initial break-in period, we reduced the rpms to normal idle.  We then set the timing and adjusted the idle mixture according to the Shop Manual specifications.  We stopped and restarted the engine several times and everything seemed to be working great.  All that's left to do is replace the hood and drive him home -- Yippee! !

I've still got a couple of finishing touches I want to do  when I get him home.  I'll chronicle that in the next  (and likely final) episode of Maych's progress.



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